Homecoming: How To Move Back To the U.S. Part 3

It’s been a month and a half since Lea and I began settling back into life as estadounidenses. It hasn’t been without bumps or mental comparisons between life here and life in South America. In fact, the settling-in hasn’t settled all the way. It’s a slow process with flurries of activity and stretches of “What now?”

In my last two articles I covered two of the most challenging aspects of returning from a period of long term travel: finding a place to live and getting that all-important health insurance. Today I’m going to talk about all the other little things that we learned and/or made up along the way as we reintegrated into American society.

Since we’re no longer documenting our lives photographically, I don’t have pictures to share about our daily life in Atlanta – so instead I’ll entertain you with photos of South American birds. After all – they too travel far and build nests.

Where To Stay and For How Long?

By this I mean establishing short-term housing and not your eventual residence. Even if you can pick up the keys to a new apartment the day after you return (as we did) it’s still not going to be livable. If you’re not able to land an apartment from afar and are still engaged in your search, then figuring out where you’re going to reside in the meantime is priority one.

For us, we bridged the gap by booking a hotel for four nights in downtown Atlanta. We were able to do this cheaply because we’d built up a ton of Holiday Inn reward points and only wimped out twice to use them on our actual trip. A hotel isn’t a long-term solution, unless you get a room in an extended-stay. Even so, the costs build up and you may have to do that which we so often find difficult: ask for help. We have friends who extended an offer for us to couch-surf at their place while we got ourselves settled, and we have others whom we might have begged so as not to impose too long on any one relationship.

As I did in Part 1 of this series, let me reiterate that it is of vital importance to understand the turn-around time of the housing market where you plan to live, so you can know in advance how long you should expect to need other arrangements before moving into your permanent abode.

Movers

If, as I suggest you try your hardest, you’re able to line up an apartment while you’re still overseas, you’re going to need to move your belongings out of storage. While you’re still overseas, and if you don’t mind an international phone call or three, I encourage you to peruse the discounts many moving companies offer on Groupon.com. When researching movers, make sure to verify that both 1) where you have things stored, and 2) where you’re moving to, are in the moving companies’ operating territory. Prices go up steeply the farther you ask a company to drive.

If you’re relocating a longer distance than a moving company can handle for a reasonable price (such as from one city to another) you may want to use another tactic of ours: rent and drive your own moving truck, but hire the professionals to pack your belongings on one end and another group of movers to unpack on the other. Believe me, you’ll be glad for the investment.

Transport

Here’s another tricky issue. When you first move back to the States you’re going to have a lot of running around and buying stuff to do. If one of the first things you try to buy is a car you’re going to be in a world of hurt. Buying a car takes an awful lot of time and energy that, honestly, would be better put to use getting through other aspects of your move. We sold both of our ancient Honda Civics before we left the country, so we had no immediate transportation at hand except for Atlanta’s public transportation.

Enter our friend Melissa! I can’t say “thank you” enough – Melissa stayed for four days and drove us around as we made trips to our new apartment, our storage unit, and the Heart of American Darkness (Wal-Mart) for supplies. After she went home we still had a lot of moving to do, including a trip to Louisiana to pick up our cat, so we rented a car for ten days. This ended up being a hefty but necessary expense. It was made even more expensive by the fact that since we no longer owned cars, we didn’t have our own car insurance. Unless we wanted to take our chances and assume nothing bad would happen, we had to go with a company that would let us buy liability coverage along with the normal damage waiver on the car. This narrowed the field to Enterprise and Sixt. Sixt would have been the cheaper of the two, but their policies would only allow us to drive to neighboring states. Louisiana was outside the allowed territory, so our money went to Enterprise.

If you’re wondering if we’ve broken down and bought our own car by now, the answer is still No. We’re hoping not to – Atlanta’s MARTA system can take you nearly anywhere so long as you learn how to navigate the bus lines in addition to the subway. This is a lesson South America taught us well, and if we can keep it up it will save us a ton of money in the long run, as well as reducing our carbon footprint. (Because yes, we care about that. But mainly about saving money.)

Owning Real Furniture vs. Camping Out

Of course you want furniture. Our problem was that to fit our belongings in a smaller storage space, we got rid of a lot before leaving on our trip. This included the couch that our cat destroyed, the mattress that was ready to be replaced anyway, and both of our computer desks. (One was $15 from a yard sale and the other was rescued from a dumpster, so no big loss.) Once we moved into our new digs, though, we had to pull out our camping gear in order to sit or sleep. We made do on a cot, air mattress, and a camping chair until we could rectify the situation.

While we still had our rental car, we went to various furniture stores looking for items in our price range. We were disappointed to learn that what had once been a good discount store had in our absence doubled their prices. In the end we made a trip to Ikea for a couch, desk, and pantry cabinet (because whoever designed our kitchen didn’t think that food storage was important). While we kept our purchases frugal, the item we skimped on the least was our mattress – after ten months of concrete hostel beds we were pretty damn ready for comfort.

Grocery Staples & Cleaning Products

On the topic of having a kitchen (at last!) we now needed to stock it. Perishables like meat and veggies we’ll buy as we need, but while we still had a car we stockpiled non-perishable staples that we weren’t able to put into storage – flour, sugar, spices, noodles, rice, chili oil, soy sauce – all the things you keep in a pantry and use a little bit each time you cook. Likewise, we couldn’t store cleaning products –detergent, bleach, cleaners, hand soap. In addition, there were items that we knew we’d use in abundance – paper towels, cat litter, T.P., and the like.

Since we suspected it might be a long time before we had access to a car again, we bought enough pantry staples and cleaning supplies to last two months or more. This cost well over $1000 in Wal-Mart and grocery trips. In one instance we filled up a shopping cart, paid for it, took it out to our car, then went right back inside to fill cart #2.

Jobs

Unfortunately we have to pay for all this. I mentioned in an earlier post that while saving for long term travel you should also save for your return. We’re using those savings now, as slowly as we can help it, but the specter of gainful employment looms nigh.

The good thing is that like apartment hunting, your job search is something you can start while still overseas. Update your profile on LinkedIn, for example, while making your long-term break from employment into a positive. Lea did a wonderful job at this by setting specific goals for herself and keeping track of how well she met them. Read about that here and follow in her footsteps.

You can also apply for jobs and do interviews while abroad, as long as you have a decent internet connection or phone signal. Reach out to people in your professional network and let them know your return plans, so they can keep you apprised of employment opportunities. Again, this has worked well for Lea who had a few companies actively waiting for her return.

As for me? I’m taking the scary road of pursuing a total career change. I was a librarian for twenty years, always with stable government employment. Now I’m a self-employed writer, having to discipline myself to work every day as if I had a boss looming over my shoulder. So far that’s working out, though whether I can actually make a living remains to be seen.

Get By With a Little Help From Your Friends

Reconnect! This is the fun part and one of the most important. It may also take initiative, but the psychological dividends are enormous. When you travel long-term, you lose that sense of belonging to a community. Sure, you can “like” posts on Facebook, write articles for your travel blog, and send emails to friends and family, but as long as you’re gone that distance between you and those you care about grows and grows and grows.

When you return, be proactive. Call people. Tell them you’re back. Arrange to have lunch. Invite people over once your place is presentable – or even if it’s not; you can sometimes conscript them into helping your move. (I’ve been suckered in this way myself more than once.) But most of all, don’t get so wrapped up in the logistics of reassembling your home and career that you forget to reach out to your network of friends.

Here in Atlanta, Lea and I belong to Sunday Assembly, a secular community. Its big monthly meetup was the day after we returned. It would have been easy and understandable if we said “It’s too early, we’ve got too much stuff to do, we’ll wait and see folks next month.”

But we didn’t. We dropped everything we “needed” to do, which at that point was a pile the size of Denali, to spend time with a bunch of friends all at once whom we hadn’t seen in forever. Could we have been moving items out of storage or buying necessities at the grocery store? Sure. But it was better to nourish our hearts instead. As we’ve persevered through all the other tasks of jumpstarting our new/old lives, we’ve kept spending time with our friends as an essential part of that process.

Besides, while we’ve been away on our own adventures, so has everyone else. It’s as meaningful to hear their stories as it is to tell our own. And without the warmth of a community of friends, you can never truly feel “home.”

P.S.

This will be the last weekly installment of The Escape Hatch, at least until Lea and I flee the country again. But fear not! I’ve still got much to say on the subject of travel, and there are many other places we’ve been in the world. Expect a new article every two or three weeks, or sooner if inspiration should pounce. The Escape Hatch will always be open.

See you on the road!

Getting Health Insurance: How To Move Back To the U.S. Part 2

This topic pisses me off. I was reluctant to write this article and have been putting it off because I know it will leave a foul, foul taste in my mouth. To mitigate the negative headspace that thinking about applying for health insurance in the United States will put me in, I’m going to populate this article with cat photos.

Like so:

Okay. That’s better. First, a little backstory. If you’re not interested, feel free to (tl;dr) skip ahead to the next cat photo for the moving-back process. When we left on the trip, we didn’t want to be insurance-free for ten months in which anything could happen, so Lea researched insurance plans for expats. The one we settled on was the GeoBlue Xplorer Essential plan, but I highly encourage anyone taking a long-term trip to investigate the options for yourself. For the GeoBlue plan, there were two options – one that would provide health coverage in pretty much every country in the world except the United States, and one that included the U.S. in the package.

There were two problems with the latter option: first, the plan wasn’t ACA compliant, so if we opted for U.S. coverage through GeoBlue we’d still get hit with a tax penalty at the end of the year. Second, adding the U.S. to our coverage would double the cost of our premium. That’s right: health coverage in the United States would have cost us just as much as health coverage in every other country in the world combined. We chose not to take the U.S. coverage and stick to hospitals overseas if anything bad should happen.

So then our options then were to either 1) sign up for an ACA-compliant health plan good in the U.S. that we would pay for but not use, 2) eat the tax penalty, or 3) somehow get an exemption from the tax penalty on the grounds of being unemployed and in another hemisphere. We were able to work out option #3 and get the exemption, but it involved applying for ACA coverage just to confirm that it was unaffordable, filling out a lengthy form buried on the ACA website, mailing a physical copy of the form to a hidden HealthCare.gov bunker, then making several phone calls from Peru months later to get our form out of the junk file and have someone actually process it.

GRRRRRRRR.

Luckily (or not, depending on which way your political views lean) the “Individual Mandate” was stripped from the ACA for tax year 2019 going forward, so there’s no need for anyone else to worry about this until the pendulum swings the other way and the Individual Mandate gets reinstated. If you’re moving back to the U.S., though, you still need to get insurance or run the risk of letting an unexpected illness or accident bankrupt you in the emergency room.

Cat photo:

Our return to the United States was scheduled for May 17. Our GeoBlue coverage was good through the end of May, but since it only covered care in other countries we would have to get ourselves medevacked to Mexico City if anything bad were to happen. We had to get American insurance, and once we had a signed lease with a physical address to show residency, I tried to do so in advance of our return.

I did not succeed. Perhaps my problem was trying to get health insurance from the HealthCare.gov marketplace and not directly from an insurance company, but being scared of what the premiums would be on the open market I went for HealthCare.gov and ACA coverage instead.

Here’s the problem. In order to apply for insurance through the ACA marketplace outside of the open enrollment period (Nov. 1 – Dec. 15) you have to fill out a questionnaire to determine if you’ve had a qualifying life-changing event to justify your need for insurance and to grant you a “special enrollment period.” You would think that moving back to the country from somewhere else in the world would be such a qualification – and it is, but with a catch.

The key question on the questionnaire for expats coming home is one that asks “Have you moved within the last 60 days?” Nowhere does it ask “Will you move in the next 60 days?” When I filled out this application while in Colombia, I had to answer “No.” When I competed the form, the website informed me that my wife and I did not qualify to apply for insurance.

Cats:

I picked up the phone and called HealthCare.gov’s helpline. (Another goddamn international call.) I explained the situation and the person on the other end let me know that as soon as we got back to the U.S. we should apply for the special enrollment period again, this time answering the question “Yes.” (We would, of course, have to upload proof of our new address and start date.) I said OK, shrugged my shoulders, and made it a priority to sign up for healthcare the day we got back.

(Which I actually did the morning of our flight, before we left Colombia. After all, assuming our plane didn’t crash, that would be the day of our return.)

What the person on the phone didn’t tell me:

Health insurance plans bought through the ACA marketplace always begin on the 1st of a calendar month. The deadline for submitting an application and the necessary paperwork to begin your plan (on June 1st, for example) is the 15th of the preceding month.

I applied on the date of our return, the 17th. See the problem?

I answered Yes to the “Have you moved?” question and we were approved for a special enrollment period. We selected a health plan from the ones offered – not the cheapest, but not the most expensive – and waited for information on our new coverage to arrive.

When we learned that our coverage would not begin until JULY 1 we were livid. How were we to go six weeks without health coverage in the country with the highest health care costs in the world? First we called our new insurance provider to see if there was anything they could do to bump up the start date on our plan. We were informed that since the plan was purchased through the ACA marketplace there was nothing they could do on their end, but they could transfer me over to the HealthCare.gov people so we could speak to them.

The HealthCare.gov helpline informed me that there was nothing they could do either; that was the policy and there was nothing they could do about it. When we asked what we were supposed to do if we needed healthcare in the interim, the HealthCare.gov person told us she could “send us a list of clinics in our area that might be able to help out” – as if we were destitute or homeless. When we pushed further, expressing that that answer was unacceptable to us, the HealthCare.gov helpline hung up on us.

Llama throwing shade:

We called our actual insurance provider back. This time, they were able to help us out by providing information that the HealthCare.gov helpline either 1) didn’t have, or 2) didn’t care enough to mention: There are companies out there that provide 30-day short term medical policies to fill in gaps in your health coverage. They don’t cover much, and don’t cover any pre-existing conditions, but at least they’ll help you not go bankrupt should you get run over by an S.U.V. or have a sudden heart attack from spending too much time on the phone talking to health insurance providers.

Our provider transferred me directly to a sales rep for one of these companies, and within thirty minutes we had a policy to cover us for the month of June until our regular policy took over in July. We still didn’t have any coverage for the remainder of May except what was provided by our rental car company. The joke I told people was that if either Lea or I had a health issue during that period, we would have to get in our rental car and crash it before going to the emergency room.

Cat, or specter of death:

So, to summarize, if you’re a long-term traveler returning to the U.S. and don’t have a job lined up with employer-provided insurance, here are your options:

1. Buy a plan on the open market, and damn the premiums.

We didn’t research this option, so I can’t list any pros or cons. I can say that I fear what those premiums might cost, given how high the “Affordable Care” premiums are.

2. Apply for a plan on HealthCare.gov before the 15th of the calendar month before the month you plan to return.

In order to do this, you may have to bend the truth about your return date in order to answer “Yes” to “Have you moved in the past 60 days?” knowing that you’re going to have to provide documentation that someone may or may not actually look at. Whether you’re comfortable doing that, I leave to you. If lying to the government isn’t your style, then you’ll also want to get on board with the next step:

3. Purchase a 30-day short term medical policy to close any gaps in coverage you may experience.

In the U.S. health system, any coverage is better than no coverage at all. Unless you can meet the criteria for option #4:

4. Be so filthy rich that you don’t have to worry about paying for health care out of pocket.

While overseas, Lea and I did on occasion use our health coverage and the healthcare systems in other countries. What we learned from the experience is that healthcare in South America, as far as we could tell, is just as good as it is in the U.S. while being an entire order of magnitude less expensive.

Now we’re back. We’ve got “cheapie” plans that don’t cover much and have high deductibles, so we’re still reluctant to see a doctor for anything less than an emergency. But at least we’re covered until we get something better.

It ain’t the best situation, but for long-term travelers it’s something to definitely keep in mind as you plan for the end of your journey.

Next week: Fun With Furniture! And now, one last kitty for the road:

Apartment Hunting from Abroad: How To Move Back To the U.S. Part 1

So, as reported last week, Lea and I returned to the United States and have settled back into our old lives. Easy-peasy, right? Heh. No.

In truth, the “settling” is still going on, though our activity has slowed down from its initial frenetic pace to something more manageable. There’s still much that’s up in the air and uncertain, but we’ve got the basic necessities covered and a few of the comforts as well. There are still some anxieties remaining re: health insurance and jobs, but that will shake out in time.

I mentioned last week that we arranged for some elements of our return while still overseas and I promised to go into a little more detail for the benefit of those who might try a similar long-term travel stunt. This article assumes that even if you’d like to own a home upon your return, your first place of residence is going to be an apartment because no way can anyone house-hunt while backpacking on another continent. Some of the issues I mention may only apply in the state of Georgia, but could also crop up elsewhere. So here goes:

In a room up the street from this church in Salvador, we applied for a lease in Atlanta.
  1. Save enough money not just for your trip, but to live for an extended period without a job upon your return.

This should go without saying, but in addition to being a common sense survival strategy, it will also affect your housing search. In order to rent an apartment, you nearly always have to prove that you have income before they’ll let you sign a lease. Some backpackers earn money while traveling to pay for their next hostel, we had no income and no guarantee that we would at the time of our return. Some apartment complexes will allow you to rent if you can show liquid assets in lieu of a steady paycheck. Some will not – this ended up crossing one of our choices off the list. Thankfully, at least two of the places we liked would allow us to apply as long as we had a certain amount of money available in the bank or other liquid financial products. We did and could prove it; this was the basis upon which we were able to rent from afar.

  1. Do research on housing options before leaving the country.

If you’re planning to leave everything behind to travel long term, but still intend to come back, take time to look at apartment complexes before setting off for another hemisphere.

We did so, but to be fair we were looking for places to move because we hated what our current complex was turning into. (We hadn’t yet committed to the overseas trip and were considering staying longer in Atlanta.) However, this early scouting served us well – once the date of our return approached, we already had a list of apartment complexes where we would be willing to live.

In Bogotá we were still waiting for a “Welcome” letter with the correct rent and deposits.
  1. Know when to start looking, and apply for apartments as early as possible.

Working from our list, we watched for available units well in advance of our expected return date. Since apartments in Atlanta require tenants to give 60 days’ notice before moving out, 60 days was the target period in which available units would appear on the market. Our goal was to snatch a good one, sight unseen, before anyone else snapped it up. This required a leap of faith – we’ve never been comfortable renting without seeing what we were getting. In this case, all we had to go on were online floor plans and our memories of the “model units” that we toured over a year earlier.

The next step was to communicate with the leasing staff from 4,415 miles away (the distance from Atlanta to Salvador, where we officially started the process). You can fill out many apartment applications online, given a decent internet connection (which you can’t take for granted). We ran into an extra roadblock when we discovered that our #1 choice of apartment homes was changing management companies right when we were trying to apply. All of their application software was down, so we called the complex’s leasing office and, over a scratchy international phone connection, explained our situation, had the paper forms sent to us electronically, filled them out by hand, then scanned and emailed them back to Atlanta. This back-and-forth with the leasing staff worked, eventually, though the difficulties drew the process out for several weeks (another good reason to start early).

In the house at the bottom of this dirt road, we slowly examined our rental agreement.
  1. Read every word of the lease. Leave your Escape Hatch open.

When we finally received the lease it was Easter weekend and in Salento, Colombia our Internet was painfully slow to nonexistent. During one of the windows when we could access the lease, we pored over it clause-by-clause. While doing this, we discovered that there was no provision for early termination by the tenant. In fact, with two specific exceptions that wouldn’t apply to us, early termination of the lease was expressly forbidden.

This was a deal-breaker. We’ve had to exercise an early termination clause in the past (when we’d moved into an apartment that turned out to be a Roach Motel) but we also needed the option because of many other scenarios we could imagine. Sad, angry, and frustrated, we sent notice to the apartment complex that we couldn’t sign, were backing out of the deal, thanks for their assistance, have a nice day, then started the whole process over with the next apartment complex down our list.

Guess what? After applying at Apartment Complex #2 and receiving their electronic lease, it had the exact same No Early Termination clause – in fact, in this case it was worded even more strongly. Apparently this is now a thing in Atlanta, as set forth by the Georgia Apartment Association. Research that I’d done the one time we did have to terminate a lease revealed that the State of Georgia has the weakest renter protection laws in the country. I’ve no doubt that groups like the GA Apartment Association have a hand in keeping it that way.

Anyway, rant aside, both complexes came back to us with amended policies that set terms that would allow us to break our lease early. We said “thanks” and asked them both if they would insert these polices into the legal documents that we would sign. Apartment Complex #2 said No – the early termination option was only a “courtesy.” Apartment Complex #1 said Yes – they were happy to add the early termination addendum to the packet of documents that we and the leasing agent would sign.

Guess who we went with? Once we had a signed lease we were finally able to set up utilities and other necessities. This was a tiny bit of a hassle but not overly so.

In Medellín we signed the lease and set up utilities.
  1. Renters Insurance and Utilities

Getting Renters Insurance was no problem at all. While in Medellín, over the space of a few hours. I was able to get online quotes from five or six companies, pick one, and pay for it.

Electricity was a little trickier because Georgia Power will not let you create or log into an account from an IP address outside the U.S. (We learned this way back in Ecuador when we tried to pay the last power bill for our old apartment.) To set up new service I had to bite the bullet and make an international call to the power company.

Thankfully for this apartment we didn’t have to set up water, sewer, or gas, though it would have been a similar process – try to do it online first, then use the phone as a last resort. The only hiccup, and one we didn’t solve until we actually moved in, was setting up Internet access. We wanted to go with Google Fiber instead of Cursed Comcast, but the brain surgeon who rented our apartment before us never turned off their account and we had to prove to Google that yes, we lived there now.

  1. Enter freely and of your own will.

So at last, on our first day back in the States, with a check for the first month’s rent and butterflies in our stomach (because what if the apartment was horrible?) we arrived at our new home and picked up the keys.

And the place is fantastic. It’s much more spacious than we imagined from looking at floor plans. There’s plenty of room for our belongings and space left over to walk around without feeling cramped. After many years of sharing a single sink, we now have two in our bathroom. We have lots of windows and natural light galore, so much that Lea’s sewing blackout curtains for our bedroom.

The place isn’t perfect. When we took possession, for example, one of the closet doors was missing (oops) and we’re still having trouble getting maintenance to fix a dripping shower head and leaky bit of caulk. During Prime Time every night, some interesting characters make a lot of noise outside the convenience store several floors below. But for the most part, the place is wonderful and with a few added touches it will truly be a home.

Here we are!

P.S.

In the next post, the cloud to our silver lining: Trying to get Health Insurance upon our return. How dare we?

To be continued.

Home Is Where the Cat Is

We’ve been back in the States for two weeks and three days. We landed at the Fort Lauderdale airport on the afternoon of Friday, May 17 for a five hour layover, two of which were consumed by an interminable death march through customs and immigration. A couple years ago we signed up for TSA Precheck. We should have signed up for Global Entry instead. Believe me, we’ll be doing that now.

The good thing about layovers in Fort Lauderdale is that they have what I consider to be the best airport pizza in the world: DeSano. Lea thought it was too salty this time, but to me it was just right. I like their “Diavolo” – a pizza with pepperoni and whole red peppers. And so began two weeks of weight-gaining indulgence at as many of our favorite restaurants as possible to see if they measured up to our memories.

This and rum cake are why I love flying through Ft. Lauderdale.

Our flight from Fort Lauderdale to Atlanta landed sometime between midnight and 1:00 a.m. Saturday morning. The time since then has been a nonstop whirlwind of activity: rushing around, shopping our eyeballs out, visiting old friends, driving to Louisiana and back to retrieve our long-lost kitty, and reassembling our lives like pieces of IKEA furniture. I’ll cover as much as I can and regale you with many tales of our reentry in the coming weeks.

Our first order of business was to run by our storage unit and make sure we had access to personal checks; otherwise we’d have had to take cash out of bank machines to make the move-in payment on our new apartment, which we were scheduled to do that afternoon. Fortunately, we’d left our checkbook in easy reach and were free to move on to Action Item #2: breakfast at OK Café.

“OK” is an understatement.

Real. American. Breakfast. Y’all. Pancakes with syrup. Eggs done right. Bacon. Orange juice. Milkshakes. A cheeseburger with fries. (Okay, that last was my order.) Did OK Café live up to our recollections as a classic, immutable Atlanta landmark? Hells, yeah.

It would be ungracious not to mention that our friend Melissa who joined us in Cartagena opted to stay and drive us around for our first four days in Atlanta. We would have had a much harder time and less fun without her. Thanks, Melissa!!!!

Action Item #3 for our first full day was to pick up the keys to our new flat. We’d arranged for this apartment from afar, starting all the way back in Salvador, Brazil, and not hammering out the final terms and conditions until our stay in Medellín. I’ll go through the nitty-gritty about arranging a return from long-term travel in next week’s installment (stay tuned) but suffice it to say that with a little pre-trip prepping and a willingness to make international phone calls you can have a lot of things set up and waiting upon your arrival.

Our apartment, for example, is in a complex that we’d looked at and liked a year before we left for South America. The unit we rented is a corner two-bedroom that’s larger than our last apartment, and right next door to a train station on Atlanta’s MARTA system – which is essential since we’re planning to go as long as possible without buying a car. Here’s the downtown skyline as seen from our window:

So that we’ll always remember South America, a power line blocks part of the view.

Once we had the apartment, the next goal was to fill it with stuff. Bright and early Monday morning, some movers we’d hired (while in Colombia, but not from Colombia) unpacked our storage unit and disgorged it into our new digs in just under three hours (which was incredible, even considering how much stuff we’d got rid of before we left). After that, for fear of what insects may have laid eggs in our boxes during the last ten months, we unpacked everything to get as much cardboard as possible out of the new apartment. The only way to cope with this much heavy labor was, of course, with more dining out at our favorite restaurants.

Fred’s Meat & Bread at Krog Street Market: Still as good as ever.

As you’d expect, there have been a few shocks to the system upon returning to the States – cultural aspects norteamericanos take for granted that we’d become deacclimatized to in the southern hemisphere. Portion sizes – YUGE! Selection of products in grocery stores – heavenly. Prices – ye gods. Americans – LOUD. But there was one cultural shift that occurred in Atlanta that took us completely by surprise, and I think it hit me full in the face as we drove to Fred’s for the best sandwiches in the city: namely, the explosion of people zipping around on rent-by-the-minute scooters.

This is one.

Before we’d left, rental bikes had started popping up around town, but the scooter craze hadn’t even begun yet. We noticed a few people riding them around our hotel downtown, and while moving into our apartment we noticed piles of abandoned scooters from four different companies clustered on every floor of our parking deck.

As we approached Krog, a fleet of at least a dozen people shot across our path on these things. I can’t explain it, but my knee-jerk reaction upon seeing them in use was the same revulsion I feel every time I see someone whip out a selfie stick. I’m over that now – they’re a cheap, quick way to get around and while I haven’t tried one myself, I have had occasion to use a rental bike. Maybe I’m just old and scornful of new technology (gods, I don’t want to be that person), maybe I’m nervous about getting run over on the sidewalk, or maybe it’s just that I’ve spent a year walking everywhere and I appreciate how much you miss by zipping through life at high speed.

At least until I try one. Then I’ll probably fall off, break my arm again, and have a whole new reason to hate them.

After a few days, alas, Melissa had to go home. We organized closets and arranged what furniture we had. I alphabetized books, BluRays, and DVDs (because I’m me). Our apartment was simultaneously a wreck and empty – we had stuff everywhere, but no mattresses, no desks, no couch to relax on, and no cat to tell us what to do. We dealt with the latter by renting a car, gorging ourselves silly at Nori Nori Sushi Buffet, and driving to Louisiana to retrieve our long-lost Miss Piggy.

Nori Nori: So/so. The rolls aren’t quite as good as we remembered, but the grilled squid and nigiri are still to die for. Especially the eel. (Lea may disagree on that point.)

Mmmmm. Eeeeeeel.

As long time readers may recall, before our trip we had to find a home for our cat. Parting with Miss Piggy was the saddest thing we did before leaving for South America. We could stay in touch with our friends, but we had no idea how Miss Piggy would handle us leaving her behind or whether she’d even remember us when we came back. We entrusted her to our friends Bob and Laura, and their teenage son Evan who would be Piggy’s primary caretaker while we were away.

It turns out that Piggy did wonderfully. She bonded with Evan, who we’re sure was sad for us to take her back (though he put on a brave face). Yet once we were at their house and she sat in our laps it was clear that she didn’t see us as strangers.

The only downside to the affair was that during our absence, our friends had to move away from Atlanta for work reasons. The upside to the downside was that our friends moved to Thibodaux, Louisiana, giving me a chance to actually go home home. I may have lived for thirteen years in Alabama and nearly three years in Atlanta (which I love, by the way) but I will never be from those places. I will always be from the land of Mardi Gras, fried catfish, Tabasco sauce, andouille gumbo, and Zapp’s potato chips.

We may have gone a little nuts at the grocery store.

And so, after ten months of constant travel, we set off once again – heading down to the Gulf Coast, visiting friends and loved ones along the way, and forging westward past the old, familiar landmarks on Interstates 10 and 12, until finally turning south on I-55 towards LaPlace and pulling over in the tiny, swampy hamlet of Manchac: nestled between Lakes Ponchartrain and Maurepas, home to the finest catfish restaurant in the history of human existence on Planet Earth – Middendorf’s.

I could write a whole article on Middendorf’s. Instead I’ll stick to two words: GO. EAT.

Middendorf’s famous thin-fried catfish. Mine. You can’t have any.

We had Sunday lunch at Bob & Laura’s with their extended family, but before running off with our cat we made a trip north to Baton Rouge to visit Lea’s graduate adviser, Dr. Ferrell, who is the closest thing to a grandparent that we have now. Baton Rouge is a city whose geography is imprinted on my brain like a circuit board; I had to resist the urge to spend all day driving around to all my old haunts. It’s good that I did. Dr. Ferrell fed us crawfish and gumbo, making our Louisiana experience complete in every way possible.

The night before, though, after driving up from Thibodaux, we made a point of going to The Chimes. Apparently, The Chimes is now a chain with locations elsewhere in Baton Rouge and other cities. The original is an LSU landmark just outside the north gates of campus, where they serve literally hundreds of beers as well as fine Cajun cuisine. (Their crab cake sandwich is unmatched, and my favorite appetizer is the alligator.) The Chimes is a special place for Lea and me – it was where she spent many, many hours with her fellows in LSU’s geology department while working on her degree, and it’s only a block down the street from the amphitheater where we were married. In fact, The Chimes was the first place we stopped between leaving our wedding reception and heading off on our honeymoon.

Lots of memories, most having to do with alcohol and seafood.

We got up way early Tuesday morning, drove back to Thibodaux and squeezed an unhappy cat into her slightly-too-small travel carrier. She cried as long as the roads were bumpy. She was happier when sitting in Lea’s lap, or when we draped a pad over her carrier (she likes to hide under things). We stopped only as often as we had to for gas, food, and the uncramping of legs. Eventually, exhausted, we pulled into our parking garage, marched down the unusually long hallway to our apartment, and let Miss Piggy loose in her new home.

She immediately hid in the closet. We weren’t surprised.

We were surprised by how soon she came out, how quickly she adjusted to her new surroundings, and how soon she forgave us for leaving her with strangers for a year. The apartment was still a wreck, our new furniture hadn’t arrived, and we were still sleeping on an air mattress and a cot, but none of that mattered. Miss Piggy was back. Our family was reunited. We were home.

P.S. The Restaurant Tally – Do they still hold up?

Fort Lauderdale Airport

DeSano Pizza Bakery: I think so. Lea, not so much.

Atlanta Metro Area

OK Café: Oh yes.

Mary Mac’s Tea Room: Surprisingly, no.

The Bone Garden: Sí, Sí, Sí. Another margarita, por favor.

Fred’s Meat & Bread: Absolutely perfect, and dangerously close to our new residence.

Hooter’s: Iffy. Something seems different about the hot sauce. Another test is needed.

Nori Nori Sushi Buffet: Also iffy. We’d go back for lunch if we were in the area, but not for dinner or on weekends when the price goes up.

Hankook Taqueria: Fan-f**king-tastic, but we should order fewer tacos.

Louisiana

The Chimes: Is still the Chimes. Branching out has not lessened them in any way.

Middendorf’s: If possible, even better than we remembered.

P.P.S.

There are still a bunch of Atlanta restaurants we haven’t taste tested yet, if anyone wants to drive us. Pretty please???